A Morning of Surprises

Day Five: Thursday, Sept. 10, 2009

Williamsport to Harpers Ferry, West Viginia

Today was the only day on the trip where we were on our own for breakfast. So we headed to the local Bob Evans, enjoyed our breakfast and then headed to the towpath in Williamsport for that day's ride. We sure spend a lot of time loading and unloading bikes. Some things never seem to change.




It wasn't long and the guys were ready to roll.




Today's itinerary was going to be a bit different from the previous day's rides. Rosy and I were going to drive the cars to our B & B in Harpers Ferry while the guys were going to ride the entire distance to Harpers Ferry that morning. We would have lunch together and then planned on taking afternoon OFF from anything related to biking. Yes, you read that right. We were going to take the afternoon off and do a little sightseeing by car. The Antietam National Battlefield was located near Harpers Ferry and we were all interested in seeing it.

Some things were not going to change that day. The towpath was still rutty and rough,




The scenery was still beautiful,




and Rosy and I would still be surprised by what we would find for that night's lodging.




The towpath held a surprise for the guys as well.

This was a pleasant surprise




but this not so much.




The sign should have said "over narrow, HILLY, paved roads".

As the guys made their way on the detour Rosy and I had arrived at our B & B. This is my kind of surprise.




Laurel Lodge is owned by Chris and his partner Ed and was every bit as nice on the inside as it was on the outside. We loved it. The inn was situated about a mile up from the river so we decided to leave both cars there and walk down to where we were gong to meet the guys.

Hey, kitty, we're walking not riding.




Rosy and I were so excited. This was the first real town we had been in so far on our trip. It even had stores. For shopping. Another happy surprise.




The city itself sits on the confluence of the Potomac and Shenandoah Rivers. It consists of the town of Harpers Ferry and a National Historical Park.

THE HISTORY OF HARPERS FERRY HAS FEW PARALLELS IN THE AMERICAN DRAMA. It is more than one event, one date, or one individual. It is multi-layered – involving a diverse number of people and events that influenced the course of our nation's history. Harpers Ferry witnessed the first successful application of interchangeable manufacture, the arrival of the first successful American railroad, John Brown's attack on slavery, the largest surrender of Federal troops during the Civil War, and the education of former slaves in one of the earliest integrated schools in the United States. It was also the starting place of the Lewis and Clarke expedition.




I wish we would have had more time to explore. There was a lot of history in one little area.




While we explored Harpers Ferry the guys had made their way back to the towpath




and were enjoying the sights along the path.




The boys made their way to Harpers Ferry and we made our way to the towpath but one more surprise was in store for us that day.

to be continued....

Moving Forward and Looking Back

Day Four: Wednesday, Sept. 9,2009

After a nice break it was time to hit the trail again. Unfortunately for me the rail trail ended at Big Pool and we were back on the towpath. The clouds seemed to be thinning and it looked like we might see a bit of sunshine during the afternoon.

John had decided to ride on ahead of us and join Rosy at the other end of that afternoon's ride so it was up to Jack, Chris, Dave and I to do the sightseeing. We didn't have to ride far to come to the first stop of the afternoon, Fort Frederick State Park.




The stone fort, named in honor of Maryland's Lord Proprietor, Frederick Calvert, Sixth Lord Baltimore, was erected by Governor Horatio Sharpe in 1756 to protect English settlers from the French and their Indian allies. Fort Frederick was unique because of its large size and strong stone wall. Most other forts of the period were built of wood and earth. The fort served as an important supply base for English campaigns. During 1763, an Ottawa Indian chief named Pontiac forged a massive Indian uprising. Several hundred settlers and militia force sought protection within the fort during this brief uprising.

The stone walls and two barracks have been restored to look as they did in 1758.




There is always time for photos.




Where are you going, Dave? Can I come too?







Break time is over, boys, time to move on. Boys? Are we moving on? Boys?




At canal mile 110 we came to Four Locks.




Four Locks was once a thriving community of homes and businesses supporting the canal. In 1836, a one-mile shortcut was built for the canal to avoid a four-mile loop in the Potomac. The shortcut required the construction of four locks to handle a 32-foot difference in elevation. Lock houses, a mule barn (now restored), general stores, warehouses, and a drydock for boat repair were built along this section of the canal. Because it was approximately half way between Cumberland and Washington, canal boats frequently stopped here for repairs and supplies.




It was time to move on but it wasn't long before we came upon this.




These boys have never come upon a site that didn't require a break. I have to admit that the views of the Potomac were really pretty from this spot. Note the sun. It made a brief, welcome appearance that afternoon.




Of course we couldn't resist putting ourselves in front of the view.




The siblings.




Have we changed much through the years?




Enough reminiscing, time to move on.

We had one more photo break before the end of the trail that day. The Stonewall Jackson at Dam 5.

The dam was originally built to retain water for the C&O Canal in 1835. It was modified in 1993, and is 20 feet (6.1 m) tall, retaining 490 acres (200 ha) of reservoir.[2] The 1835 dam was constructed of wood cribbing, and was attacked by Confederate forces under General Stonewall Jackson in December of 1861 with the aim of destroying the dam, depriving the upper C&O Canal of water and consequently cutting off coal shipments to Washington, D.C.. Two assaults by Jackson's forces failed to cause significant damage to the dam.[3] The dam was later replaced with a stone structure,[4] which has been upgraded with concrete.




Another great day on the trail. We made our way to the KOA to find freshly laundered sheets and towels waiting for us. Thanks again, KOA. We really appreciated it. We enjoyed a nice dinner at the local Olive Garden and happily retold our stories of that day's ride.

Mileage for the guys 45. Total miles so far in the trip stands at 227. 105 left. Will everyone make it? Time will tell.

to be continued.....

Smooth Sailing

Day Four: Wednesday, Sept. 9, 2009

Wednesday dawned bright and oh who I am trying to fool? It was cloudy and misty like most of the mornings of this trip. But it wasn't raining so for that we were thankful. Steve fixed us a breakfast of French toast which was made with some of his homemade bread. It was excellent. Steve likes to talk and told us a lot of stories but one thing he told us that morning is that we needed to go a few miles up the road to a lookout. He said it was one of the top ten views in the United States according to National Geographic. Well, something like that. I was too busy enjoying my French toast to pay much attention to what he was saying. But the top ten part caught everyone's attention so off we went to see for ourselves.

The overlook is accessed from Oldtown Road, the oldest colonial road in eastern Allegany County. In 1758 during the French and Indian War, Colonel Thomas Cresap, Maryland’s great pathfinder, blazed this road to improve and shorten the route between Fort Cumberland and Fort Frederick.

This doesn't look promising.




It is believed that the name "Point Lookout" originated during the Civil War when Union troops stationed at neighboring Little Orleans were assigned to protect the C&O Canal and Railroad from Confederates intent on destroying the bridges and aqueducts along the Potomac River. Lookouts were established at Point Lookout and other nearby ridges from which Union troops could observe the canal, railroad and Confederate movements through the valley.

Despite the fog some were still determined to get a picture of one of the prettiest views in the United States.




I was one of them.

Visitors to Point Lookout today can enjoy the same view that the Union troops had 140 years ago. From the overlook can be seen 243 acres of land that was once owned by George Washington.




We didn't see much that day but I would sure like to go back and try that view again.


We headed back to the lodge, packed the cars and got ready for this day's ride.




Today's ride held a pleasant surprise. For 22 miles the towpath would be paralleled by the Western Railroad Rail Trail. Twenty-two miles of smooth riding. No ruts, no tree roots and most importantly none of these:




Pure bliss. This portion of today's ride would be in the morning when I wouldn't be riding. Cherry picking indeed, brother.







While the boys were enjoying their fun Rosy and I made our way to that night's lodging. Our destination was a KOA in Williamsport. Now we knew better to think there wouldn't be some kind of surprise awaiting us. The question was whether it would be a pleasant surprise or an unpleasant surprise. I was hoping for the former.

We arrived and it sure looked like a pleasant surprise. It was nice. Really nice. We were renting a cabin of sorts. It was portable but looked like a cabin and most importantly was new. We had a small kitchen for cooking and a front porch. We went to the office and they had our reservation. Everything was working out that day. We decided to take a look at it and drop off one of the cars. We went in and that's when things started to go downhill. It still had that new smell and everything looked new and clean but there was one small problem. There were NO linens. None. No sheets. No towels. This could be a problem. We went back to the office and explained our dilemma. I have to say they went out of our way to help us. Somewhere they managed to find enough sheets for the beds and four towels. They even washed them for us. Thanks, KOA.

We made our way back to Big Pool to meet the guys.

Here they come!







After yesterday do you really think Dave should be in the back?




He looks pretty good considering the wear and tear of yesterday.



It was time for lunch and some rest and relaxation.

to be continued......

Only In Orleans

Day Three: Tuesday, Sept. 8, 2009

Dave had recovered, somewhat, and we continued on our way. We met up with Jack and told him what he had missed going on behind him. We all had a good laugh and off we went. Destination: Little Orleans. John and Rosy were at the trailhead as planned. We retold the story again and had another good laugh. Even in the retelling the story wasn't growing old.

There was no doubt we were headed in the right direction from the trailhead to the Little Orleans Lodge. Bill's was halfway there and there was his sign pointing the way. Thanks, Bill.




Brandy was there to greet us.




We ran into Steve upon arriving, "Bill called and said to tell you he would be open tonight". Isn't it gambling night? Why wouldn't he be open? But regardless it looks like it's Bill's tonight for dinner.

Rosy and I had seen our rooms but the guys hadn't. Rosy and John were on the second floor sharing a bathroom with three construction workers who were working in the area. Jack, Chris, Dave and I were in another room on another floor. We had one and a half baths and a very convoluted layout. It was interesting to say the least. The entrance to our rooms failed to impress Dave.




But it was clean and there was that promise of ice cream and blueberries before bed so I was happy.

We cleaned up and headed to Bill's. Looks like we're in the right place.




First things first. Drinks. The guy who had helped Rosy earlier in the day was still at his place at the bar. He had now been joined by Bill's son Slim. Bill's sister was also there and was in and out of the kitchen.




Once the drinks had been taken care of dinner was ordered. While waiting for dinner a game of Euchre seemed like a good way to pass the time.




Every good bar should have signs and this bar was no exception. I think we could have spent all day looking at all of the stuff he had on the walls.




I bet you are wondering where the gamblers are. Me too. We were the only ones in the bar the entire night. Oh, Steve, you jokester. You better not be joking about that ice cream.

I am sure you wouldn't be surprised to be learn that Bill was quite a talker. By the end of the night he had his pictures out and was telling the stories that went with them.




Bill's was quite a place. Chris couldn't help but buy a t-shirt with Bill's photo on the front.




It had been a long day so we called it an early night. We headed back to the Little Orleans Lodge and much to my delight enjoyed some ice cream and blueberries. Thanks, Steve. We sat around his table for awhile enjoying our ice cream and talking.

Despite Dave's misgivings at the beginning of the trip about this night's lodging it turned out just fine. It was probably the most interesting place we stayed at the entire week. Was it the nicest and most elegant? Not even close. But by far the most fun. That counts for a lot in my book. I will take fun over fussy any day.

As I went to bed that night I happened to glance down and saw two clamps holding the front of the bed together but I was too tired to even care. As long as the bed didn't collapse in the middle of the night I figured all was good.

I'll leave you with a quote by Bill:

"You'll look long and hard, but you won't find another place anything like this place, I can tell you that," says Bill through a haze of cigar smoke. "And no," he adds, "we don't have a no-smoking section in our dining room. If you don't want to smoke, you can go outside and not do it."

I couldn't have said it better myself.

to be continued......

That Hurt!

Day Three: Tuesday, Sept. 8, 2009

The guys and I made our way down the towpath. Meanwhile Rosy had exhausted all of the possibilities at General Dollar and had made her way back to the trailhead at Little Orleans. But first she made a stop at Bill's to pick up some snacks for the bikers. We thought this was the grocery store.




We were wrong. The grocery store was in the bar. Really when you think about it why not? It surely makes it a lot easier for Bill. Rosy went in and found one lone patron at the bar. Bill was nowhere to be found. But she did find the grocery store.




Bill conveniently keeps the mouse traps next to the salad dressing.

If you look closely you can see dollar bills pinned to the ceiling. There are over 6000 bills signed by donors from forty-two states and fifteen countries. We meant to pin a dollar bill on the ceiling later that night and forgot. Next time.

Rosy made her choices and went up to the bar. What to do? Bill is nowhere to be found. No worries. The bar patron took her money, went behind the bar and put it in the cash register.

While Rosy was busy shopping at Bill's we were continuing to make our way down the towpath.




Parts of it was very rough and rutty. The towpath was living up to its reputation. Riders in front would frequently call out, "Rock!, Tree Root!, Rut!" It was helpful but one still had to be careful. It was slow going by most biker's standards. Jack was leading, followed by Dave with Chris and I taking up the rear. We had become somewhat spread out and for a bit Chris and I couldn't see Dave and Jack.

That's when we came upon this scene.




Chris and I looked at each other. Why was Dave sitting on the side of the towpath? That seems strange. Maybe Jack decided to take a swim in the Potomac. Jack would do that. But the banks were steep and it was a somewhat cool and cloudy day. Why would Jack be swimming? Ah, maybe Dave is just waiting for us since we had fallen behind.

We came closer and things were beginning to become a little clearer.



"Where's Jack?"

"Somewhere up ahead."

"Why are you sitting here?"

"I just flipped over the handle bars of my bike."

What! You did what?! As soon as we determined that he was really okay and nothing was broken, the sound of laughter erupted.




Well, one person was laughing. There is no proof that I joined in. None at all.

It seems this was the cause of Dave's accident. Jack must not have yelled, "Rock!", loud enough.




Dave composed himself and we continued on. I see Brother is still smiling. There is no proof that I was smiling. None at all.




Lucky for us there are campsites with water and portable toilets every five miles. The water came in handy for the scrapes on Dave's arm.




Just to be accurate this photo was an reenactment. I made them do redo this scene for me because I was in the porta potty when they did it the first time. Thanks, guys!

Dave composed himself again, Chris and I tried to stop laughing and we continued on our way to Little Orleans. I think Dave was looking forward to that beer that was awaiting him at Bill's Place.

That night we found the bruises and scrapes. Poor Dave not only was his arm banged up but his back had a nice large scrape on it. His one hip was so bruised that he couldn't lie on it that night. The next day we discovered that his helmet had a large crack in it. He hadn't even realized that he had hit his head when he had flipped off his bike that afternoon. He was a very lucky guy. It could have been much worse than it was.

Our adventures weren't over. Steve and Bill were waiting for us in Little Orleans.

to be continued.....